Clean head-high surf early yesterday and some really fun rides on the Simster. More fun this morning too...
As you improve at surfing things take a shift in the search for that stokety-stoked feeling. I caught a sad wave – I didn't feel that excited after a ride that should have been. The realisation is that as you get better you've got to make your stoke by really riding the wave with style and ideas/moves. When you're beginning it all feels like a jumble and those stoke sparkling waves come along by chance and without warning. As you get better riding along a nice 3-4ft face becomes normal and then it's time to start making some moves.
Boards and rocks don't mix. Rob tried it on Sunday. Biggest ding I've ever seen right across the nose. Still, I saw him cutting some lovely lines across a nice wave just after so it was still working.
At the end of today's session I got furious with myself after about my fifth in a row kooked-up pop-up. It's no good to get in that state of mind. Waste of time and self-perpetuating, but sometimes when you've glanced along the wave and glimpsed the ride that's coming, only to plant your front foot all cock-eyed and dive into the face is sincerely infuriating!!!
My neck is killing me. Taking up surfing at forty has certainly meant a great spread of niggling pains and injuries over the last two years (mainly shoulders, arms, wrists and even fingers). Take it up earlier if you can.