A Summer Surf... In Winter!?
I spoke prematurely. The swell lasted into today with slick little glassy swells running into the Gate at low tide. It was a curiously summery surf. Logging fun, lovely, friendly clean little waves and hot, hot sun! I had to take my hood off, it was soooo warm. A couple of friends and just a few more in the water made it clear it wasn't summer at all.
Today, apart from just enjoying myself, I tried to concentrate on trying to gain some smoothness along the wave. Managed a quick cheater five though. It's really nice to be at a stage when I can really enjoy surfing, sliding, rather than the challenge of surfing. On the down side I forgot to put vaseline on the wetsuit sores that have appeared on my shoulder blades. It's the first time I've suffered from wetsuit rash. If you do get it - keep on top of it with vaseline. A friend of mine told me today that he's got scars in the same spots on his shoulders from letting it get too bad.
As if in acknowledgement to the unseasonal feeling – a pink ghost flower has seemed to blossom out of the sun in this photograph I took.
When I got in I watched this to remind myself I'm just a kook and see how it should be done:
Joel Tudor's Duct Tape Invitational at Steamer Lane looked awesome! Anyone know if there's any more footage apart from the three or four clips I've found on YouTube? Alex Knost came away the competition winner (on a board he'd shaped himself) but it looks like a mountain of stoke was cooked up and shared out to everyone...