Wrongboarding


We know about Shortboarding and Longboarding. But what about Wrongboarding? We all know that howling feeling at the water's edge when we realise the right board for the conditions is sitting somewhere out of reach!

I seem to have unwittingly become some kind of serial wrongboarder.

Today I paddled into 1-2ft clean waves... on my thruster. My wife wanted to have a go at surfing today and asked to use the longboard. I met CP in the water. His first question: "where's your longboard?" At least I had a reasonable excuse today.

Usually, it's because of not having a secure way to store the log on the car: I have to decide at home which board to take with me. Log or thruster? Almost as often as not I end up paddling out on what I think is the wrong choice.

Looking about there are an awful lot of wrongboarders. Learners on shortboards being the obvious main example.

The other day I was dropped in on by a guy on a blue soft-top. Judging by his technique and casual style he was a pretty good surfer (albeit with questionable etiquette) and must've borrowed the board, I assumed, in some kind of last ditch emergency. I now wonder if it might have been for fun! He might be a deliberate wrongboarder.

Perhaps wrongboarding is some kind of pleasurable surfing perversion?

Ah - something get a kick out of - eh!? Kenvin playing on his retro Simmons experiments, Rastovich surfing Waimea on an Alaia, Tyler Warren surfing anything that floats... well, I guess 'wrongboarding' can be fun!

Comments

  1. Given a specific set of conditions, aims and a finite quiver I think there is a right board - or a least a best choice for the session. Don't you think? (I don't believe in a 'right board' in any ultimate way — just based on the waves/conditions.)

    There's kind of a scale I guess - clean 2-3ft and I wouldn't mind whether I was on my log or thruster, but I wouldn't want to surf Aileens on my Mini Mal!

    Hope you're knee is holding up alright. I had screws put in my knee once and although it's ok it's never felt the same since.

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  2. hahaha. Just discovered your blog. I have often said that having more than 1 board (and 2 daughters who surf and pinch my boards all the time) means I often have the wrong board under me. I hadn't made the logical next step and called it wrongboarding though - very good! I haven't been down to Devon for a year or 2 but Coombesgate is a beautiful place and a beautiful wave where both daughters cracked standing on lovely long little waves.

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  3. hmm.. "wrongboarding", kinda new lingo. Could this be a new surf slang? Who knows...
    ;-p.

    nice post bro.

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  4. Were all wrongboarders at heart, :-)

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  5. this concept is easily solved: surf a pig.


    done


    done


    and


    done!

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  6. "everybody shreds both on my crew"! Ha-harrrrrrrrr!!!

    ReplyDelete

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