We know about Shortboarding and Longboarding. But what about Wrongboarding? We all know that howling feeling at the water's edge when we realise the right board for the conditions is sitting somewhere out of reach!
I seem to have unwittingly become some kind of serial wrongboarder.
Today I paddled into 1-2ft clean waves... on my thruster. My wife wanted to have a go at surfing today and asked to use the longboard. I met CP in the water. His first question: "where's your longboard?" At least I had a reasonable excuse today.
Usually, it's because of not having a secure way to store the log on the car: I have to decide at home which board to take with me. Log or thruster? Almost as often as not I end up paddling out on what I think is the wrong choice.
Looking about there are an awful lot of wrongboarders. Learners on shortboards being the obvious main example.
The other day I was dropped in on by a guy on a blue soft-top. Judging by his technique and casual style he was a pretty good surfer (albeit with questionable etiquette) and must've borrowed the board, I assumed, in some kind of last ditch emergency. I now wonder if it might have been for fun! He might be a deliberate wrongboarder.
Perhaps wrongboarding is some kind of pleasurable surfing perversion?
Ah - something get a kick out of - eh!? Kenvin playing on his retro Simmons experiments, Rastovich surfing Waimea on an Alaia, Tyler Warren surfing anything that floats... well, I guess 'wrongboarding' can be fun!