Fear and Loathing in North Devon

That was the best pic I could grab on my phone the other day at Puts. If that front wave's overhead...

The biggest waves and 'scariest' conditions I've gone out in so far. Howling offshores made it really hard. There was chop rising up the face of the waves half the time and every time you tried to catch one you were blinded. I could only imagine the moment being illustrated by Ralph Steadman.

Here's the bigger picture:

I got out by the rocks (thanks for the advice Sir) and returned in by the rocks (pretty hairy at high tide!) Glad to be in one piece after some crucial duckdives and encountering head-and-a-half waves. As I have experienced before though when heading out in pretty challenging conditions, I sadly didn't get a decent ride. A couple of up-and-tumbles and that was it. Another no-wave day! I hung my head in shame all the way home. Do 'no wave days' happen to everyone?

I think everyone was finding it pretty tricky - if it wasn't for the hatefully strong wind...


  1. Everyone does dude. But feel good that you went out next time you'll get one. Its all part of the journey


  2. Hey you got out! I expect that would not have been possible a while ago.

    Keep going out in bigger conditions and you will start to relax and get waves. P-land tends not to give its waves away easily to anyone.



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