Drop-In, Baggy Boot, Gulls, Surf-Smiles, Ecstatic

Paddled out yesterday into 2-5ft smoothy surf at P-Land (after getting over the 'jet-lag' from my ill advised dawny the other day).

Being in bigger waves recently has given me more confidence to get nearer the peak and I made a conscious effort to paddle later, in a more timely fashion, which all paid-off. Ecstatic. Got a stoke recognizing surf-smile from a fellow surfer after one good right.

Another new experience: got dropped in on. Twice. By the same person! But I actually felt pleased because it's never been me catching the wave nearer the peak before. Busy Puts days are an exercise in etiquette and board control.

Some gulls swooped by - wondering what the hell we were up to.

Had some great wipe outs. Late wave attempts. And all with a baggy right boot - full of water. How do you stop that? Some good duck-diving too. A day of all round improvement and confidence. Absolutely stoked. Can't wait to get in again.


  1. Tom,
    To stop Baggy boot you need to buy boots with a velro strap that goes around the foot.

  2. Xcel boots are fine - although I have Rip curl!
    Tom - sorry to hear of the drop ins' did they at least acknowledge you were on the wave ? I just hate bad manners...just a courteous sorry costs nothing.

  3. I've got O'Neill - with velcro straps. It always happens on my back/leash foot. I think though they fit well for length they're not tight enough. I've got thin feet. My Xcel summer boots fit better.

    Nah -the guy didn't acknowledge it. The second one was the worst: a decent wave came and I pulled back because there was a better one behind - this guy went for the wave and missed it. I caught the next one and he jumped on when it caught him up! It put me on the back foot and I pulled out. But like I said - it didn't feel too bad because it's a novel experience for me. I've not been too used to catching good waves in the right place so I just loved being in the position of power for once!

    I'm just full of surfin' love!


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