Who Moved the Line-Up Again?
Just went out for a quiet surf at Croyde. Since it was the only day with a hint of swell for a week there were quite a few people in the water fighting over a few little waves.
It's hard work finding where to sit sometimes on a beach-break around here. I was chasing waves left right and centre trying to work out where to go. Longing for a proper line-up. The one good thing for me today was that I did manage was to catch one wave - with much paddling - perhaps earlier than I have ever caught a wave before. Another useful skill is learning not to bugger up catching the first wave of a set and having to sit there with the remaining decent waves in the set landing on your head. (Especially on a day like today where anything over a foot high was like gold dust!)
It was nice in the sunset but still so calm in between the little sets that there was an awful lot of sitting and waiting to be done. I was more worried about getting surfer's arse than surfer's ear. Come to think of it I think, if it existed, surfer's arse would probably be the worse affliction!?