Surfing Bad No.5: One More Wave...
Today I discovered that saying to yourself "just one more wave before I get out" can go on, and on, and on... !
As my surfing addiction has bitten hard I am surfing as often as conditions allow (that's marital conditions I'm talking about!). Yesterday was my tenth surf and I caught my best wave to date - catching it at the critical section and scooting down the line with a little bit of weaving about and just a hint of control. This fantastic moment is held, like a precious thing, at the forefront of my mind. I think that this was the primary cause of my discovery today (11th surf and third day running) of the 'just one more wave' scenario. Tired and with an aching left elbow from paddling I decided that I would get out and go home after 'one more wave'. This - I found - can go on for some time.
After about a further half an hour and a number of less than satisfactory waves I grudgingly left the water. The sun was setting - everything was beautiful. And then: that feeling as you look back and the waves suddenly look better than they seemed to be when you were in. Agh! It's playing with my mind!
Can't wait until next time - and there's some bigger swell forecast for Sunday/Monday.