5.00am: No Parking, Sea Full of Surfers. WTF!?

Off on a yawny this morning. Tried, and failed, to avoid the crowds!

At high tide it's a bit more shifty. Wave's come unnanounced, like the grim reaper, and pick people off. You're just waiting for your moment. Grab it while you can 'cos the waves are all over the place. Always over there or suddenly looming and you're on the wrong side. Or is that just me?

Patience is a virtue to the wave fisherman. Lots of sectioning going on. Got one tasty wave - but so did some other f@$7er - peeled off. Lots of looking, lots of waiting. Frantic moments, smooth moments. Sometimes the water suddenly looks soooo smooth - like it's not even the same liquid. There were all sorts of colours in the sea this morning: dark greeny/blues, whites, browns and then tropical turquoise in the breaking foam.

Something's clicked though: I'm getting my Diplock going now. Getting more waves, some really good rides, good control, some turns, some speed. Proper.

But as you slowly improve, upon reflection, the dissatisfaction persists: with every good ride you're also glimpsing a better one.