It's My First - Surfing - Anniversary Today!

So that's it. A year's rushed by and surfing has taken over my life.

My head is now filled with thoughts of: Alex Knost, quads, wooden surfboards, Simmons, logging, clean faces and glistening peelers, Joel Tudor, Dave Rastovich, smells (neoprene, wax, the sea), 50-50 rails, Noosa, The Endless Summer, Tom Wegener, Skip Frye, ice-cream headaches... et cetera, et cetera, et cetera... 

I think about little else. I have started drawing and painting again and am even working on the upcoming website and rebranding for The Museum of British Surfing - surfing is encompassing both work and play. Many of my loves and interests from all through my life are suddenly falling into place and surfing... surfing was the key.

In one short year: I have discovered that surfing is the hardest sport I've ever tried. It's also the most beautiful. I've made friends, had great times and spend all day looking forward to...

And a big thankyou to: Glenn at Surfed-Out, Mikey at Loose-Fit, Chris Preston, Howard Davey, Steve PP, Pete Robinson, Richard Gregory and Wavedreamer, Mat at goto11 design, Adam Nardoni, Steven Dean and everyone else who's supported, encouraged, nudged, helped, laughed at and shared the odd perfect wave with me. Oh - and, of course, to my wife who has had to put up with me bleating on about nothing else, buggering-off out all the time and spending all day assessing surf-reports. This year has been something special. Cheers!