Drop-In, Baggy Boot, Gulls, Surf-Smiles, Ecstatic
Paddled out yesterday into 2-5ft smoothy surf at P-Land (after getting over the 'jet-lag' from my ill advised dawny the other day).
Being in bigger waves recently has given me more confidence to get nearer the peak and I made a conscious effort to paddle later, in a more timely fashion, which all paid-off. Ecstatic. Got a stoke recognizing surf-smile from a fellow surfer after one good right.
Another new experience: got dropped in on. Twice. By the same person! But I actually felt pleased because it's never been me catching the wave nearer the peak before. Busy Puts days are an exercise in etiquette and board control.
Some gulls swooped by - wondering what the hell we were up to.
Had some great wipe outs. Late wave attempts. And all with a baggy right boot - full of water. How do you stop that? Some good duck-diving too. A day of all round improvement and confidence. Absolutely stoked. Can't wait to get in again.
Being in bigger waves recently has given me more confidence to get nearer the peak and I made a conscious effort to paddle later, in a more timely fashion, which all paid-off. Ecstatic. Got a stoke recognizing surf-smile from a fellow surfer after one good right.
Another new experience: got dropped in on. Twice. By the same person! But I actually felt pleased because it's never been me catching the wave nearer the peak before. Busy Puts days are an exercise in etiquette and board control.
Some gulls swooped by - wondering what the hell we were up to.
Had some great wipe outs. Late wave attempts. And all with a baggy right boot - full of water. How do you stop that? Some good duck-diving too. A day of all round improvement and confidence. Absolutely stoked. Can't wait to get in again.
Tom,
ReplyDeleteTo stop Baggy boot you need to buy boots with a velro strap that goes around the foot.
Xcel boots are fine - although I have Rip curl!
ReplyDeleteTom - sorry to hear of the drop ins' did they at least acknowledge you were on the wave ? I just hate bad manners...just a courteous sorry costs nothing.
I've got O'Neill - with velcro straps. It always happens on my back/leash foot. I think though they fit well for length they're not tight enough. I've got thin feet. My Xcel summer boots fit better.
ReplyDeleteNah -the guy didn't acknowledge it. The second one was the worst: a decent wave came and I pulled back because there was a better one behind - this guy went for the wave and missed it. I caught the next one and he jumped on when it caught him up! It put me on the back foot and I pulled out. But like I said - it didn't feel too bad because it's a novel experience for me. I've not been too used to catching good waves in the right place so I just loved being in the position of power for once!
I'm just full of surfin' love!