Yesterday - All My Surfing Seemed So Far Away...
Surprised by the wind dropping yesterday afternoon and some clean little waves peeling in I took the opportunity.
Felt cold for the first time. I mean it's been cold but ok - this felt a little colder. Missed every wave on my 'flyer'. Every wave. Sat and muttered to myself:
Another swell
just passed me by.
I don't know why
it passed me by?
It swirled round in my head like a negative mantra with my confidence disappearing down a dark mental drain. Anxious as the light quickly disappeared. Everything sucked. The sea chilled my muscles, my brain, my optimism. Paddling - ever tired - blindly, chasing waves that had gone rather than those on their way. Missed every wave. I'm embarrassed to admit it. A wave count of zero has to go down as my worst and most ridiculous attempt at surfing ever! What kind of a surfer am I? Worse than I thought. This cold makes it harder though. Should have stuck with my Mal that I've used the last few times out. Is that partly why? Have I just got (re)used to the ease of Mal-wave-catchery?
In surfing there's you, your board and a wave. Are you gonna catch that wave? There can be a very fine line between 'likely' and 'unlikely'. When you get the wrong side of the line things slide – in the wrong way. When you're progressing: try and keep things the right side of likely...
Felt cold for the first time. I mean it's been cold but ok - this felt a little colder. Missed every wave on my 'flyer'. Every wave. Sat and muttered to myself:
Another swell
just passed me by.
I don't know why
it passed me by?
It swirled round in my head like a negative mantra with my confidence disappearing down a dark mental drain. Anxious as the light quickly disappeared. Everything sucked. The sea chilled my muscles, my brain, my optimism. Paddling - ever tired - blindly, chasing waves that had gone rather than those on their way. Missed every wave. I'm embarrassed to admit it. A wave count of zero has to go down as my worst and most ridiculous attempt at surfing ever! What kind of a surfer am I? Worse than I thought. This cold makes it harder though. Should have stuck with my Mal that I've used the last few times out. Is that partly why? Have I just got (re)used to the ease of Mal-wave-catchery?
In surfing there's you, your board and a wave. Are you gonna catch that wave? There can be a very fine line between 'likely' and 'unlikely'. When you get the wrong side of the line things slide – in the wrong way. When you're progressing: try and keep things the right side of likely...
never mind Tom, disappointing, but at least you got wet, and there will be other waves with your name on them, i haven't been able to get out for a couple of weeks because of work:(
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