Welcome back to Stokeland...

Surfed again yesterday. Hugged the rocks and jumped onto a nice 3ft set wave at the right spot. Beat a flat section with some forward leaning, rounded a whitewater section and up and down some more green wave before bottom turning and watching my board come up and smack off the lip as I attempted a 'proper' cutback as the wave closed out. With a moment of hope for staying on before tumbling into the whitewater I enjoyed the sense of triumph coursing through my veins. After my worst surf ever this - best ever wave day - was the fast train back to Stokeville...

I have bored my wife to death with it. Not even spared my six year old daughter the finer details of this wave. And now I'm boring you. I know well that I should keep it to myself, lodged in my own little mental surfing museum. But I can't.

Now back to reading my lovely copy of Kook...