Fantastic Clean Surf Yesterday (My Big Wednesday!)
What it looked like when I went in (mmmmmmmm!):
Enjoyed the most delicious waves yesterday - easy flat water, not much wind and lovely clean 2-3ft waves. I have been surfing for four months now and was scared that it would be too big/difficult for me, however, first wave: best wave ever! A monster wave (2-3ft ha ha) and I scooted along it and shouted (quietly to myself) as I jumped off. What a day! Maybe soon I'll be an intermediate surfer!? No - lets not get carried away...
An hour and a half later, with aching shoulders, I left the water as the sun was heading towards Lundy...
Looks fun!
ReplyDeleteGreat pictures, and I always enjoy your words. What a great swell to have shared from across the bay.
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