Putsborough 14-7-09

Went out at Putsborough on Tuesday evening in the most amazing waves. I arrived at about 5.15 pm and took this photograph of clean waves up to 4-5ft curling beautifully towards me. It was a windy southerly so everyone went there and within an hour the water was like a seal colony - there had to be 100 surfers in the water at least.

For me it was mainly an exercise in not getting in anyone's way, experiencing being in waves that size, trying to catch a few (I got up on only three) and feeling what it's like to get properly pushed over the falls by a curling wave. I swallowed a lot of seawater that evening! My mate Steve and I spent a lot of time just paddling on the outside, watching the good surfers and trying to catch a wave when there was no danger of getting in the way or hitting someone.

The sense of excitement amongst the decent surfers in the car park was palpable. There were a lot of lovely surfboards being dusted off, waxed up and taken to the water with urgency and anticipation. I noticed lots of Twin Fish which are nice looking boards. The only problem was clearly how busy it was in the water. I must get the alarm clock working and start dawn surfing.