Heavy Cotton

It struck me while watching this how insane this all is. I wonder if I'm going to get a good wave when I go for a surf, but I travel a handful of miles and go for 15 to 30 waves in a session I suppose. I think it's a bit far to go down the coast and nervously explore an unfamiliar break. Andrew Cotton (like other big wave surfers) plan a few days ahead, travel to different countries and all in the hope that they might find that one significant ride. (Not to mention the fact that he's doing this coming from Devon when most big wave surfers will come from Hawaii, California, Australia or other places blessed with grand local surf.)

I mean - how hard do you want to make it? How unlikely and how much of the whole experience gets shifted into the framework of logistics, travel, preparation and training? Cotty deserves his own biographical movie. He's a compelling surfer and as a person is achieving amazing things considering he wasn't born near a world class surf break. He looked so bloody happy chatting after that amazing left - you could see the joy of all that preparation, gambling, risk and hope paying off with a ride he deserved to find.

Super film and editing work by Mikey Corker to bring these adventures home to us too.


Popular Posts