Five Years of Surfing

Five years of surfing now, have finally led to me surfing a tricky spot that I've been looking at for years. (These are not me - they're pics I took while browsing.)

A bad move and you end up on the rocks (I did once with–luckily–no damage), there's lots of paddling to do to keep in the right spot but had the best waves of my life and left super stoked! It's spots like this that you find it's clear why you shouldn't rock up and surf it to tick off a box. It's sketchy and pretty unnerving to see your fins flying so close to the rocks now and again. But oh - so nice!!!!


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