At Last a Bit of Offshore Wind to Complement the Swell
Some super fun waves - wish it was like this more often! Had loads of thoughts in the water: this is perfect, I'm not making the most of it, shit that wave is a bit big, I love this board, I'm a shit surfer, I'm not a bad surfer, this is beautiful, shite my shoulders hurt, I wish there was no such thing as getting tired, getting old, I'll never get barrelled, voooooooom, freeeeeezing. I don't think I particularly enjoy those 'one good wave - session save' days, I prefer a fun solid session with lots and lots of waves. Surfing's hard and I've had enough of it being too hard. A bit of ease/confidence is good for your surfing progression. More waves = more turns = more improvement. I bet you could improve more on one wave at Bells than ten short rides at Wooly? What bloody lovely surf. Lovely. I think when you can do a proper carving, full-speed roundhouse is when you move from being an average surfer to pretty good. Pleasure in surfing is so fickle. You have to enjoy the whole experience. I love my new 7mm round toe boots this winter. Love them. My toes love them. Getting too cold is a spoiler. A friend had gastroenteritis and missed these two good days. I'm glad I didn't have gastroenteritis. Surfing really, really is like drug addiction - hit hunting. It's also a lot like fishing. It's like fishing for crack.