At Last a Bit of Offshore Wind to Complement the Swell

Some super fun waves - wish it was like this more often! Had loads of thoughts in the water: this is perfect, I'm not making the most of it, shit that wave is a bit big, I love this board, I'm a shit surfer, I'm not a bad surfer, this is beautiful, shite my shoulders hurt, I wish there was no such thing as getting tired, getting old, I'll never get barrelled, voooooooom, freeeeeezing. I don't think I particularly enjoy those 'one good wave - session save' days, I prefer a fun solid session with lots and lots of waves. Surfing's hard and I've had enough of it being too hard. A bit of ease/confidence is good for your surfing progression. More waves = more turns = more improvement. I bet you could improve more on one wave at Bells than ten short rides at Wooly? What bloody lovely surf. Lovely. I think when you can do a proper carving, full-speed roundhouse is when you move from being an average surfer to pretty good. Pleasure in surfing is so fickle. You have to enjoy the whole experience. I love my new 7mm round toe boots this winter. Love them. My toes love them. Getting too cold is a spoiler. A friend had gastroenteritis and missed these two good days. I'm glad I didn't have gastroenteritis. Surfing really, really is like drug addiction - hit hunting. It's also a lot like fishing. It's like fishing for crack.


  1. hi, i really enjoyed that post, and your blog as a whole mate. I completely agree, the longer the ride the greater the progression. That said, any wave that gives you confidence is good for your surfing. Having enough time to set up properly, sight your turns, plan a few moves ahead and get into flow is essential for progression. Ive had some GREAT waves at puts, and some terrible waves at Bells (and winki, bells is better looking sister). Both of those waves have given, and then taken away when it comes to confidence.
    thanks for sharing your thoughts.


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