Wave Bastard

Is what I've become...

The days that are clean and overhead: you have to go in. The days that are clean waves: you must, it's rarely clean here. Marginal days: you must surf as the next day may be worse. Messy days: the surf is sketchy right now, I've got to get in, it's messy but at least there's a swell, it probably won't be surfable tomorrow.  When it's dead flat I announce to the family, hey, I won't go surfing today, lets do what you want.

Every day possible there's a reason to surf. Surfer's understand it and there is a parallel with addiction: the fear that you don't know where your next 'fix' is coming from. It may go flat tomorrow for a month. If I don't get in today I may never surf again! Quick, grab wetsuit, out of the door...

In Patrick Trefz's movie "Idiosyncrasies" Richard Kenvin goes on, in melancholic fashion, about how you should put family and life first and if you can fit in surfing around that you've got everything. My desperation to surf has made me a wave-bastard. I know a few people who have made peace with their desire to improve as quickly as possible and surf as much as possible and are calm about not surfing.

I went in yesterday and the surf was shit. I realised that this week I've surfed a whole variety of waves: shit, messy, weak, feeble, choppy, lumpy and crap. Admittedly, amongst all the hideousness I did find a decent ride or two, especially a particularly choice left at Putsborough. But, really, I need to redress the balance of priorities a little. Just a little...


  1. This is a great post, although I think Kenvin is probably where its at. I forever look at the pictures of my children thinking why do i need to spend so much time in the water. That said I too am a wave bastard and my early years in a convent have left me in self torture and guilt over not being around enough. Hey ho...the surf was great today : ), and I even shared some waves with them too

  2. I feel your pain.

    I too can be a wave bastard, and when I sacrifice a surf for the family I struggle not to let it p!ss me off.

    Like you I end up venting my frustrations on my blog 'Surfer Dad'.

    Keep up the good words. Cheers


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