A Good Swell

It's been a bit breezy and cold but a good solid swell came in at the weekend. Here's a photo of someone enjoying themselves.

I probably surfed some of the biggest (well overhead on the sets) waves I've been out in. Nice to be taking part in this kind of swell now.

I'm still learning how to handle myself in waves like this though - it's hard work, especially when it's this chilly and you take a few on the head. But I've learned that as long as there's nobody behind you it's ok to bail and dive on the paddle out, rather than try and duckdive, if the lip lands right in front of you (if it's ok for Derek Hynd in Litmus it's ok for anyone!).


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