Surprise Stoke

Messy 1-2ft. Sun's going down - only time for less than an hour in the water. Stay or go? Nah, not worth the hassle. Wet neoprene, petrol. Nah...

All too often that's started to be my way. Getting fussy now I can surf a little bit. But hold on: I'm losing surfs. Being a fool. I would have gone two years ago just because there were any waves at all. If I could be teleported straight into the water I'd go. Forget the hassle, think about the water. You never know in surfing, you just never quite know. I grabbed my 5'8 Bing Dharma and rushed out.

So, so glad. My first wave was super. Nothing much. Shithouse surf. However, given some scraps it's superbly fun to feel like you're making the most of them. Bubble & squeak, leftovers, delicious! And I'm absolutely loving the Dharma - it's a really fun and lively little board that glides into anything and wants to dance. The sun was setting and orchestrating the most stunning blue to orange blends with little clouds and bigger cloudy pitter-patter-patterns. Absolute joy. Just to be surfing, wet, paddling, ducking, falling. We can quickly become harbingers of dissatisfaction. Surfing can become disappointing if we always focus on the 'perfect surf'. I needed to remind myself that surfing is much more unpredictable than that. You don't know where that next precious jinking little slider's gonna come from. All you can do by sitting on your arse staring at surf forecasts is miss an unforseeable little bit of gold. Don't be all la-di-da or hoity-toity about the state of our waves (talking to myself here). Just go, go, go. Can't wait until our next day of crappy surf.


  1. You are of course correct in all you say...but the effort it takes to get in only greatens as time passess.


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