An Alchemical Surf

Large swells yesterday - the limits of my ability. I felt physically scared in the water but then dropped into probably the biggest wave of my life and the alchemy happened: fear into stoke. 

This alchemical etching perfectly illustrates the moment!? Hot liquid golden stoke... with seagulls watching and serpents in my hands I rose up and flew. Sitting in the water you feel like flotsam, like foam-fodder waiting for a pounding. When your sliding along the face every chemical in your body tells you - this is the best place to be. Now I really know what the phrase the safety of the shoulder is all about.


  1. I really like this post !! Well written I can really relate.

  2. a feeling well described Thos :-)

  3. Great description.

    The passed two seasons seem to be the opposite of alchemy for to sewage. That's the lot of an ageing shortboarder with over 30 winters to compare...but inbetween the injuries and ordinary sessions (Lymouth yesterday) there are those waves that still turn to gold.We are fortunate just to be sitting out there admiring those views.


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