An Alchemical Surf
Large swells yesterday - the limits of my ability. I felt physically scared in the water but then dropped into probably the biggest wave of my life and the alchemy happened: fear into stoke.
This alchemical etching perfectly illustrates the moment!? Hot liquid golden stoke... with seagulls watching and serpents in my hands I rose up and flew. Sitting in the water you feel like flotsam, like foam-fodder waiting for a pounding. When your sliding along the face every chemical in your body tells you - this is the best place to be. Now I really know what the phrase the safety of the shoulder is all about.