Kookamamie Lunchbreak

Why? Why did I decide to paddle out at Woolacombe this lunchtime? Of all the crackpot, ridiculous, kookamamie ideas! I was instantly reminded that as an early intermediate surfer I am still one quick wrong turn away from Kookville. From turning into a hideous, dead-end, Kook-de-Sac. Half an hour of humiliating splashing about in a great load of foam where every duck-dive was rewarded by another wall of whitewater smashing you in the face. I could see it was a bad idea as I trudged in like a condemned man. Overhead on the outside and a hundred yards of foam inbetween. Can't believe I'm still making pigs-ear of simply deciding when and were. Desperation to get in the water can be a very bad thing.

A wet arse and no fish, as they say...


  1. Looking back, some of the best surfing times I had were whilst I was in the improver stage. Learning about surfer lore, new moves and exploring breaks.

    I'm forty seven and have spent the last 15 years slowly declining or hanging on by my fingernails to the modest level of ability I achieved in my 20s. I'm frequently guilty of bemoaning that it could of been better if...

    Enjoy the ride. Any ride or even a paddle out is worth celebrating.


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