Clean Fun

Having not taken any photographs I couldn't think how to describe the fabulous clean 3-5ft fun waves we were treated to yesterday. Turning to drawing it just took the piece of paper...


The most exciting piece of paper in the world?

It's easy, at my intermediate stage, to confuse great surf with having a great surf. Yesterday it took the whole session before I caught and rode the ride I'd been fantasizing about the whole time I was out. You've got to find your feet and direction so fast that it's real easy to get outrun by the wave. Finally I dropped into one just right and sped along the building shoulder - so clean and smooth it was absolute surfing pleasure!

I've been thinking about moves - bottom turns and cutbacks - but on larger waves I've got to step back and learn to optimize my speed and position. Ride that wave. And I mean that wave. I think most people have the idea that a surfer drops into a wave and then does whatever moves he or she wants. Once you surf you know that the wave shapes your ride as much as you do.

Everyone was filling their boots. Quads, thrusters, fish, Simmons-y shapes, logs: all comers where flying around doing what they should be doing... until the sun legged it - far, far too early - over the horizon.

(It was perhaps a bit busy though; I'm dreading what's going to happen when the webcam that's been installed at Combesgate is live.)

Comments

  1. Who's put a webcam at Combesgate?......and where?

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