I Just Love Surfing

Tricky days and the dark burden of life's miserable network of admin.
Daily, hourly, trudging through the life-sludge.

The light glints through the door - opening - to the chance of a surf,
The cool rush of anticipation breaks through your head like an icy internal wave.

I love picking up my board.
I love packing my wax, towel, wetsuit.
I love leaving.
I love feeling the wet sand... the first steps into the water...
...the first waves jumping excitedly round your legs like friendly dogs.

And on, and paddling, shoulders warming, smiles at the ready...
Shimmering, sparkling, transluscent waves.
I look back to the shore and the theatre of rainbows,
in the flamboyant plumes of spray.

"Hello mate. Been out long? It's lookin' good."
"About an hour. There are longish lulls but some nice sets coming through."

Sit, catch my breath, watch, wait, like a wave fisherman.

And... here comes the swell,
To ruffle my surfing feathers.


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