Five Toes Over the Nose!
...for the first time today. Saunton - early. Sacks of stoke mined! Day and date noted.
And I did it a few times - one nice one crouching for a few seconds. Then went and surfed faster, glassy, shimmering, friendly, beautiful walls at The Gate in my boardshorts until it got too crowded.
Actually I was more excited by a balanced fade towards the whitewater and then turn back into trim and move towards the nose - the kind of longboard control that I'd love to get nailed.
A good day! Unexpected glass after a lot of mess and some great loggin' fun.
Then sadly watched Alex Knost's board getting pounded under the pier at Huntington Beach in the US Open of Surfing (grabbed this image from their live feed):
It was a perfect demonstration of the dangers of leashless surfing. To the pained wails of the commentators Knost's board bounced around against the mussel encrusted pier's pillars. You could almost taste the crunching glass and foam.
And I did it a few times - one nice one crouching for a few seconds. Then went and surfed faster, glassy, shimmering, friendly, beautiful walls at The Gate in my boardshorts until it got too crowded.
Actually I was more excited by a balanced fade towards the whitewater and then turn back into trim and move towards the nose - the kind of longboard control that I'd love to get nailed.
A good day! Unexpected glass after a lot of mess and some great loggin' fun.
Then sadly watched Alex Knost's board getting pounded under the pier at Huntington Beach in the US Open of Surfing (grabbed this image from their live feed):
It was a perfect demonstration of the dangers of leashless surfing. To the pained wails of the commentators Knost's board bounced around against the mussel encrusted pier's pillars. You could almost taste the crunching glass and foam.
I'm sure having met alex, he could care less!
ReplyDeletehe was ripping but tudor was awesome!
Yeah - I'm sure, he didn't look too fussed. I was thinking more about us viewers who would treasure that board with kid gloves!
ReplyDeleteI know what you mean I think: Knost's attractive style is like a meta-language, beautifully stitched onto his surfing technique. Cool, show-offy, contemporary, cultural. Tudor's flowing style is more like nature: as if he's somehow made himself as a surfer into a new species. Tudor reminds me of seeing dolphins and seals playing in the waves.
It's almost as if they have inverse psychological desires from surfing: Knost to develop his ego and communicate with people; Tudor to dissolve his ego and become part of nature. What do you reckon? Maybe there's an article in this?!
Whoa. I just meant they were surfing well!
ReplyDeleteActually I think that's possibly true. Alex is a product of a very pop culture area and he definitely has a bit of an add personality if you know what I mean
Great words Thos ! Very eloquent.
ReplyDelete