Wonderful Lunch at Putsborough

Puts today hid us from the southerly and offered up some juicy clean swells at high tide. An unexpected delight after my previous surf here and the less than optimistic surf forecast. When we turned the corner and looked down from the top the sight of lush waves instead of the 1ft mess I was expecting I nearly shot through the roof!

It's always busy on days like this though but I was just happy to immediately lay to rest the spectre of my last Puts experience. Looking forward to tomorrow. (Interesting too to know it can be really good at high tide because I've had some bad high tide times there.)

The way my new 9'8 catches the waves is so graceful and smooth it's such a pleasure! The different technique to turn and trim is a challenge I'm relishing. I'm so fickle: I wished I'd brought my 'shortboard' when I saw the waves. When I got out there I enjoyed the log so much. To be honest - I'd have loved it out on my old Mini Mal. You can get too obsessed/distracted with boards (but, paradoxically, that obsession just adds to the pleasure, excitement and richness of it all).


  1. Great image and words !
    So true about the whole boards obsession too-sometimes its best just to get out there and make the most of whatever you are on.

  2. Did you go out by the cliff?

    An hour and half before high is frequently the best time in terms of the shape of the waves.

  3. Was there at the right time (and yesterday too).

    I was heading for the cliffs - I could see it was cleaner and there was more time - but then there was a lull and just got out quick, roughly in the centre of this photo.

    Had great fun there on my shortboard yesterday. Suddenly Puts has become my friend!

  4. Was out this day as well, always liked puts for the shelter and to sometimes escape the crowds of croyde.

    Know what you mean about the board thing, i tend to take about 20 boards on every trip and spend each session thinking "i should have taken out the ....." , but like you said it all adds to the fun of surfing


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