Went on a disastrous dawn surf at Putsborough last Friday. Head-high and a killer paddle-out. I've always had my absolute worst, longest, most knackering paddle-outs at Puts.
Trudged, beaten, back to the car, glancing back now and then at the powerful surf. Some surfers were doing it. Most were sitting out back, falling into close-outs or battling the foamy inside.
When I got back to Marine Drive I was amazed to see the surf reflected beautifully in these hedgerow wave sentinels - almost ominously warning of the majestic waves below. Never noticed them before, felt spooky!