So Many Firsts (Sly and the Family Stoke!)
First No.1: I surfed in boardies for the first time today! What a great feeling. I had a neoprene vest though. A neoprene vest (I've got a Billabong foil) is just the ticket at mid-day in summer. The water shoots through it though, let me tell you! When you fall in it's like you're not wearing anything. A cold flush to raise the eyebrows every time. It keeps you warm while you're up so great for a longboarding lunchtime surf. As I found a longish wave amongst the mess at Combesgate I mined a pretty quantity of boardie-fuelled summery stoke!
First No.2: Sarah, my wife, stood up a number of times and caught her first waves by herself. Stoke rained down.
First No.3: Matilda, my daughter, used her new boogie-board for the first time and caught her first waves. One particularly choice wipe-out brought a few tears. But she was still stoked!
The collective family stoke mined this lunchtime was many megatons!
It was a beautiful day...