So Good I Left the Boot of My Car Wide Open...

A pretty big Wednesday...

Blue, clear, tubing, almost transparent when you looked up from paddling, powerful, clean - oh you know.... just 6-8ft pumping! Thinking I had somehow fallen through a worm-hole and come up on the North Shore of Oahu I legged it over-excitedly from the car.

I surfed in when my key came out of it's 'neck pocket' in my wetsuit and started moving around my chest; didn't want to lose it!

The delicious irony was that when I got back to the car I found I had left the boot wide open. With the proper keys in the car I wouldn't have needed my 'surf key' anyway! Luckily car, board-bag, keys, phone and so on were all present and correct. Opportunists were probably distracted by the surf-spectacle. Gawd knows what Downend Point was like...


  1. Epic!
    Love the new look to your blog and those waves do look like Hawaii. From the picture I would have never guessed. Hope you had a blast!

  2. uh oh, the dreaded surf size scale raises its ugly head!!! ha ha great post and beautiful shot but 6-8 ft its not. :) x

  3. Cheers Tall Guy!

    Anonymous - you may be right - I'm struggling to get to grips with judging wave height, especially as it seems to be almost an aesthetic judgement in the surfing community. I was pretty sure when I was out there that some of the faces would have measured well over 6ft. But I freely admit my ruler may be squint. Eyeball described the day as 4-6ft. Other surfers I spoke to in the water thought the biggest set waves were over 6ft.

    I'm not out to try and impress anyone! It was the clean clarity and shape of the waves that was the great thing that day rather than the size.

    And more importantly - there are some nice waves today!


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