Yesterday - All My Surfing Seemed So Far Away...

Surprised by the wind dropping yesterday afternoon and some clean little waves peeling in I took the opportunity.

Felt cold for the first time. I mean it's been cold but ok - this felt a little colder. Missed every wave on my 'flyer'. Every wave. Sat and muttered to myself:

Another swell
just passed me by.
I don't know why
it passed me by?

It swirled round in my head like a negative mantra with my confidence disappearing down a dark mental drain. Anxious as the light quickly disappeared. Everything sucked. The sea chilled my muscles, my brain, my optimism. Paddling - ever tired - blindly, chasing waves that had gone rather than those on their way. Missed every wave. I'm embarrassed to admit it. A wave count of zero has to go down as my worst and most ridiculous attempt at surfing ever! What kind of a surfer am I? Worse than I thought. This cold makes it harder though. Should have stuck with my Mal that I've used the last few times out. Is that partly why? Have I just got (re)used to the ease of Mal-wave-catchery?

In surfing there's you, your board and a wave. Are you gonna catch that wave? There can be a very fine line between 'likely' and 'unlikely'. When you get the wrong side of the line things slide – in the wrong way. When you're progressing: try and keep things the right side of likely...


  1. never mind Tom, disappointing, but at least you got wet, and there will be other waves with your name on them, i haven't been able to get out for a couple of weeks because of work:(


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