For Me The Year Started Today

After waiting patiently for the right day I slipped in this morning. My shoulders tired quickly (just over an hour in the water) but held up without pain. I was worried after my last surf attempt that it would end in disappointment. Enjoyed some slippery little waves – including one that went on and on and I only had to leave it because of the rocks. Joy. Because I wanted it as easy as possible I took the Mini Mal: a board I thought I'd left behind. Rubbish. I loved it. Folks: don't forget your Mal and don't be snobbish about your boards - they've all got a lot of fun in them. It was just right today. Fast paddling, easy pop-up, early waves. There's a great pleasure to be had in catching a wave early. It's like when you're first on the train and you can take a moment to choose your spot. That said I was on my own at Combesgate anyway (and that won't happen in a few months).


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