I had a frustrating time today. A great time in the water but very poor in terms of what you might - fairly - call surfing.

Good surfers, I can't help to notice have a much greater 'catchment area' than me. They can spot the waves farther out and paddle quite a few feet to either side in time to swoop onto the right spot and get cracking down the line.

I have a tendency to sit there, more in hope that the wave find me. If I try moving around I tend to just 'chase the waves' like a dog after a car that's left already: it tends to be a futile exercise in wasting energy rather than effective technique.

I am really beginning to understand why everyone speaks to me of surfing being something that takes years of devotion to get to grips with.


  1. Don't let those other more experienced surfers bug you bro! It takes years of experience to really get a grip of it and then you'll still have humbling moments where you realize there is a lot more to learn. That's the great thing about surfing; you're always learning. Even Slater, Curren, Laird, etc. are all still learning. Ok, maybe not as much as us, but I'm sure they have their rare moments. I always try to replay each wave I ride in my head right after exiting and ask myself what I could have done differently to make it a better ride. Keep surfing man!

  2. Hey - don't worry TallGuy, I was bitten by the bug immediately: I'm in it for life. I'm just impatient at wanting to get better! Especially now it's getting chilly which seems to be making things a bit harder work. I look forward to riding a 5'10 fish like you one year soon! Cheerio...

  3. It's all part of the learning Easy! It's what makes the good moments and sweet rides even more and learn from the good guys, that's how we learnt. Yes, it takes a long time, but it's a pleasurable and healthy long journey!


Post a Comment

Popular Posts