Good, Bad, Foam, Wind and Persistence...

Monday was a funny old day. I went out in the morning and had my worst surf ever. Besieged by foam for 45mins at Woolacombe I finally made it to the outside and some messy 4-5ft waves. Knackered: I didn't catch a single wave. Grrrrr. (Maybe the fact that nobody else was out should have been a clue.)

Not wishing to accept that as my day's surfing experience I snuck out again in the afternoon and found some smaller, cleaner, waves which were very enjoyable thankyou very much.

The sprightly wind held up the waves nicely, but blinded me with spray from the nose of the board when catching a wave. I tried using The Force which didn't really help - but I'm no Jedi. Someone told me I should be getting my weight an inch forward. That's what it's coming down to now as I learn to feel the finer details; the sweet spots for paddling and wave catching.

Not long ago simply having my body, the board and the water in the correct order was an achievement.


  1. Man, the waves in that picture look amazing! It's so different looking than what we have around here... I wanna surf it just looking at it! Ha! Oh and no I haven't seen the Present, but now it's on my list so thanks! Keep surfing and keep the stoke!


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