Best Ever Wave Day! We all love 'em. One of the advantages of learning is that it's much more likely that you'll have a 'best ever wave'. Went out at Woolacombe this morning before it got too busy, caught a right: and it went on forever! Well, y'know, it felt like it anyway. However, I do think that it was a lucky one for Woolacombe as I caught it on the outside and went down the line it flattened slightly and then reformed allowing me to surf green wave all the way from the outside to the knee deep shallows. It was really nice to have enough time to think more about balance on the board: weighting the nose, starting to carve turns, just feeling the feel. (I can only imagine how much faster you could progress if learning on a fantastic long reliable wave rather than our messy beach breaks.)
It's a beautiful day for it. Sunny, little wind, flat 'n niiiiice clean 1-3ft waves chugging in. If you don't enjoy surfing today in North Devon you never will. The only down side, from my point of view, was that I'm starting to feel the cold through my 3/2 summer suit. And you can't really be brave about it I guess, because, regardless of attitude, if your muscles get cold your paddling will suffer and cramp will set in.