7th Surf: Woolacombe (again)
Yesterday I went deliberately back to the site of Sunday's debacle. You've got to get straight back on the horse - haven't you?!
Had a great time. The waves and whitewater were a bit smaller. What I discovered is that - contrary to what I felt - I had learned a lot yesterday. I was a lot better at paddling out through the whitewater and actually made it out to 'the outside'. I found eskimo rolls an effective way to sneak under the wave - but then impossible to neatly end up back on top of the board afterwards (and I also tended to get my leash all tangled around my legs). It seems easier to push the board through the whitewater and lift your body over it. My paddling is also slowly getting stronger.
Today's great moment was trying to catch a roughly 3ft wave: being picked up, standing at the top of it and looking down to see the water about eight or nine feet below me (I am 6ft). (If you are about to start surfing, or are just starting out, the way I would suggest you get an idea of what I am talking about is to simply jump up onto your kitchen table and look down: it's that kind of disorientated feeling.) Of course I fell immediately; the excitement of nearly catching a proper wave currently sends my body into some kind of panic which makes falling off a reflex action. But still, that moment was something completely new and was another hit to help send me on my way to surfing addiction.