My next Surf was at Putsborough
Putsborough completes my round of my three most local beaches.
I went to Putsborough because it is said to be more sheltered by the headland than Woolacombe. And it was indeed. While Woolacombe was still windy and probably had a strong rip like the day before - Putsborough was much more protected.
It was a perfect day for learning: nice little 1-2' faces.
Started to manage to consider things other than "I'm standing up! I'm standing up! I'm standing up!" while standing up. Things like: "if I push my front foot down I speed up," "what is the wave doing behind me?" and "if I stay out much longer how cross will my wife be when I get home?"