First Surf: Combesgate Beach 15-5-09
Took my board out for the first time. Combesgate Beach, pushing tide, beautiful 4-5ft faces and a surface as smooth as you'll see.
A few keen surfers were out, clearly enjoying themselves judging by the whoops and shouts, when I strolled in. The conditions were wonderful for an intermediate or experienced surfer but a bit good for me. I floundered in the shallows. Still, I managed to catch a few waves (well whitewater at least!) and stand quite a bit. Only managed to stand for a short while but I did immediately find my Mini Mal easier to use than the boards I'd hired. It was very early days: just getting used to the board + me + water. My Quicksilver wetsuit was easily warm enough - good for a summer wetsuit in 10°-11°C water. It was just great to be back in the waves, back in a wetsuit, with that feeling of the salt edging into your eyes and the drying taste of the sea.
I left the water feeling very, very, happy. Surfing certainly has a physical pleasure in throwing yourself about in the waves, but I think it also acts as a kind of psychological rinse cycle.