Early Surfing Thoughts
- Surfing is difficult.
- Surfing is only a very small percentage surfing. Some of the other things are: What is the tide doing? What is the wind doing? Which is the best beach to go to (and at what time)? How are the waves breaking? How strong is the current? Is the wax ok on my board? Where should I try and put myself? What are the other surfers doing?
- My 'surfing life' must be about 0.00000001% actually surfing a wave, so, one constant surfing aim must be to increase your 'actual surfing time/total time' proportion. However, one must - out of necessity - also aim to philosophically accept the surfing fate of always being burdened by a cruel ratio.
- If you put your board down on the wet sand, to put on your leash for example, when you pick it up it may have a ton of sand stuck to the bottom of it which makes it very nose heavy to carry and also immediately betrays your novice-hood.
- Don't try and surf at Woolacombe, near high tide, on a Bank Holiday weekend. The beach is like an ants' nest, while the sea is absolutely cluttered full of tourist jetsam. The waves were a mess too (my first 'bad surf').